The Holy Master of Chaat: Guruji

Every city has a legendary icon that must be remembered for all eternity. In the city of Allahabad, I think it is Guruji. THE master of chaat.

He learnt the trade from his father, and has been serving chaat for the lucky residents of Allahabad since 1945. Yes, you read that right, 1945! Even before India got its independence!

Guruji

Guruji is special not just because he's probably the oldest living chaat vendor in this country, but because he serves a special three-course phulkis. Now, lets get some terminology clear. Phulkis is the term used in Allahabad for pani puris, and I will stick to that. As I discovered, phulkis are different from phuchkas, that is different from golgappas, that is different from pani puris! Napkin Chatter promises to do a full length feature of the national variants of tangy spicy pani filled in crisp tiny pooris!

Enough of lessons, back to the three course phulkis. First course, the puri is stuffed with seasoned matar or mashed peas (this is the regular filling for phulkis across Allahabad) and dipped into nice tangy spicy pani. The pani is at room temperature, not iced like it is in most parts of Delhi. Second course, the puri is stuffed with garam(warm) sagoda ka pani. If you're wondering what on earth is sagoda keep reading this post. Third course, the puri is stuffed with potato that is seasoned with green chilli and mint paste then topped with some sweet imli (tamarind) chutney before being dipped into the khatta (tangy) pani.

3 Course Phulkis

Guruji still serves each phulki to each customer himself. At the second course, he warns each of them “garam hai” (its hot, don’t burn your tongue!) The commitment and dedication shown to his craft is incredible.

Sagoda

Sagoda is a kind of pakoda in some insanely yummy gravy/pani. I am saying pakoda because it resembles one but it tasted far more flavourful than any deep-fried-gram-flour entity I have had! This is drenched in a tangy and spicy gravy of sorts. Its thicker than paani used for phulkis and thinner than a subzi gravy. Served in a khullad (clay cup), it is as appealing in appearance as it is in taste. My first taste of sagoda has found a special place on my 'memory palate' (à la Sherlock's memory palace!)

Khasta

While we were chatting with him, he whipped up a serving of Khasta for us to sample. Its a variation of a kachori. Smaller and denser with more filling. He crushes a pair, tops it up with yummy chutneys, dahi and fresh boondi! Its nothing like I have ever had before, simply delicious.

The establishment is entirely family run. While on the face of it, apart from guruji only the son is seen making tikkis and dahi bhalla, right from peeling potatoes and making the various chutneys other members of the family are involved. In a way, you can sense that love and bonding in the near flawless flavours that are you are introduced to by Guruji. Come here by late afternoon, because by evening the cauldrons are nearly empty.

What makes this experience even more awesome is the ridiculously cheap prices at which Guruji serves these heavenly chaats. I asked him how does manage to price his chaat so cheap, and he said “it is what is it”. Though he laments that when he started out, he could serve 8 puris for one paise and now can only afford to serve 4 puris at Rs. 5. I still think its a fantastic deal, in the year, 2014, if you get chaat that tastes this good at Rs. 5 you are blessed.

I have been blessed by the Guruji. I'd recommend you set out on a chaat pilgrimage and pay your respects to the holy master.